Sunday, April 30, 2006

Good Food?

I do not often write about where I currently work in Birmingham, but have realized recenty how much I learn and how this expereince influences my whole philosophy and understanding of food. For example, last week we began to use white asparagus with two dishes on the menu. I don't think I even knew that such a thing existed, let alone tasted it before. Today, I even read a chef in America (New York restauranteur Daniel Boulud) who commented that white asparagus was infact his favourite kind. It does have a unique, individual flavour and good texture, but I believe lacks the beauty and ofcause vibrant colour of traditionally green asparagus. I must confess that I have also discovered a liking for other fine ingredients like imported black truffles and fresh turbot, with meaty, beautifully rich fish. Currently, we accompany troncettes of lobster with a fresh spaghetti, blended with parmessan, truffle oil, salt and a little freshly grated black truffle. It looks and tastes divine!

I could go on and on about the beautiful use of delicious ingredients- sometimes the very best that can be sourced, golden brown scallops with squid and saffron orzo, chicken with caramelized apple, sweetcorn and maple syrup, enormous sweet souffles with our own iced-creams. Good food? No, more, fantastic food, carefully prepared and presented with a master's touch.

Tuesday, April 25, 2006

Big Cheese Competition!



I was delighted to be invited as a National Finalist recently in the first Grana Padano Young Chefs' Competition two weeks ago. Grana Padano is an Italian hard cheese- delicious in its' own right- yet similar to parmessan. It originates from Northern Italy and infact can only be called Grana Padano if it meets the standards of a regional consortium there.

'he doesn't like to be called a celebrity-chef'

I travelled to London's Westminster College of Catering to cook my recipe for Grana Padano Cheese Souffle with Red Pesto Rattatouille. It was an arduous journey, despite the efficiency of Virgin Trains, making it from Birmingham to Euston in just 1 Hour and 29 minutes. I then dragged my luggage, including ingredients and service plates accross the underground, changing several trains, before a short taxi journey from Victoria station to the college. I was relieved to arrive in plenty of time to meet Giorgio Locatelli. Locatelli could be introduced as a 'celebrity chef', but I am told he doesn't like to be called that. Despite his successful television work with channels like UKTV Food and several accompanying books, he prefers to be recognised as a restauranteur and Michelin starred chef. Locatelli observed us prepare our dishes together in the colleges' kitchen, before presenting our dishes to his watchful eye.

'I prayed in front of the oven'

Another finalist, had the pleasure of serving before me and returned a few minutes later, looking a little sullen. He told me that, 'He didn't say anything!'. 'Nothing?', I asked. Locatelli had tasted the dish, but had said nothing. I wasn't sure what to think, but tried to encourage myself and him, by saying, 'well, that could be a good sign', but I wasn't even convincing my self.

Well, my turn soon came around, as I prayed infront of the glass fronted oven, wishing my souffle to rise. Indeed, it did and after quickly garnishing it with a little basil and a shaving of cheese, I rushed out to the retsurant table and the silence of Signor Locatelli. Once again, he leant towards it, reached his nose to the souffle and then delved his fork into the golden crust. He drew the fork to his mouth, swallowed, the silence continued and seconds began to feel like minutes. I didn't know if I should say something, 'Do...you...have any questions?' I mumbled. Silence. He took another forkful, before retreating to a nearby chair, scribbling notes on a clipboard and staring into his papers. I skuttled back to the safety of the kitchen as quickly as I could.

About half an hour later, after everyone had presented their dishes to him, Locatelli gathered us around to give a summation of his thoughts. He speaks. And we finally find out the result- I did not win, but he did speak highly of my entry and seemed to enjoy the dish, despite its simplicity. I scored lowly for creativity, but this only had a few points available, whilst scoring much more highly for taste and use of the ingredients. However, another small souffle served with generous slices of pork belly pipped me to the title and the prize of a trip to Italy.

Every finalist did win an entire wheel of cheese. It arrived last week, 36.6 kilos of Grana Padano. The largest piece of cheese I have ever seen and almost too heavy for me to lift, let alone eat. Something of a booby prize- but a very big cheese!